A big THANK YOU to everyone who has sent in their photographs and stories. I hope by sharing other people’s pictures and stories here on One Hundred Dollars a Month we can all find unique ways to save, show off our chickens and have a rock star gardens. Keep them coming!
Hello Mavis!
Thank you for your great sites (blog and Facebook); my wife and I find much in the way of useful info.
I’d like to share how I built my own chicken coop and some helpful hints that became a part of the project. I decided to build my own as coop that can be purchased out in town will run, for six chickens, anywhere from $2500 to $4500! Between asking for scrap at construction sits and what I did buy, we probably spent about $150.00.
The completed coop and Helpful Hint Number 1: If you live in an area with nocturnal, predatory animals such as raccoons, possums, etc., you’ll want to put a little extra in the way of protection. For this, I used welded wire from Lowe’s. A roll of 36” x 50’ should do it for a coop like mine with a footprint of 4’x8’.
You’ll want to let the welded wire run at least 6” along the ground around the coop to keep any of the critters mentioned above from digging their way in. I covered the welded wire at the base with 2-3” of dirt and planted the flowers (which the chickens ate in a day).
If anything does dig, it will not get far and will certainly not be able to lift the wire from the ground. Helpful hint 1A would be to include a covered area AND “outside” area for the chickens to occupy. On the bottom left of the “cage” is a hinged door that when opened, gives the chickens access to the rest of the yard. The “cage” that you see is for when we will not be home for hours on end and feel it best to keep the chickens out of harm’s way (the kind of harm that comes from the VERY large population of red tailed hawks that hang out in the area!).
Helpful hints 2,3 and 4 can be seen in this picture of an almost-complete coop.
Helpful Hint Number 2: Ventilation. I cut a decent-sized slot and built a frame around it and added hinges to allow air in. You can’t see it from the view, but there is a notched arch on the other side that allows this hatch to be opened to four different degrees – more for summer and less for winter/rainy weather. A hatch like this should be on BOTH sides of the coop. There is also welded wire here to keep the critters out.
Helpful Hint Number 3: A window. I used a scrap of plexiglass framed in place and secured against the elements with caulk. For the chickens, it lets in a little light. For me, I can see into the coop. The door below the window is the “chicken door” – their way in and out.
Helpful Hint Number 4: Laying boxes. As a naval architect/draftsman by occupation, I designed every square inch of this thing, including the number of boxes for egg laying. I have 6 chickens (City of Norfolk, VA limit) with four boxes for the chickens to do their business in. If you have six boxes, the chickens tend to go broody easier as there is not a line of hens waiting to drop an egg; they’ll sit there all day unbothered.
Fewer boxes makes for the necessity of a rotation. But what about the extra space that could allowed for two more boxes? Easy! Block it off from the chickens and use it for storage! We keep a small dustpan, brush, disposable gloves and a ready bag of grit in there.
A view from the inside with a 5-week-old inspector checking out the roosting poles.
A large access door (about 32”x32”, hinged on one side) provides access to the rear of the coop for cleaning and maintenance.
Helpful Hint Number 5 and Helpful Hint Number 6 is to build your roosting poles in such a way as to have them easily removable for periodic cleaning. At the far end, you can see that a simple slot with an opening at the top makes this happen. Trust me, your roosting poles will not look this clean after just a few days. . . My roosting poles are 2x2x8’ untreated lumber.
A five-week-old Plymouth Barred Rock coop inspector is a must!
For Helpful Hint Number 7, build a threshold for the laying boxes. Yep, a threshold does just that: it holds thresh. For us, it’s straw from the local Feed & Seed place. A 2×4 on it’s side offers plenty of hold.
A little help goes a long way.
Helpful Hint Number 8. Get your kids to help!
~Bruce
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Mama Cook says
Beautiful coop! I love the idea of removable roosting bars! That could make cleaning so much easier! Also, I concur with adding the welded wire to the ground…we saw signs of digging in our last coop, with no success due to that wire!!! Great job!!!!
Teresa says
Bruce!
So beautiful. I like that everyone helped too.
Robyn says
Beautiful coop! I agree with the welded wire in the ground- I’ve experienced raccoon carnage and it was heart breaking.
Brianna says
Beautiful construction! Very talented and well thought out.
Beth Rankin says
Mavis, have you discovered this group? Many of the events they have posted for the coming summer and fall are not too far from you now. https://greenhorns.org/
Lindi Turnipseed says
Bruce, your coop is prettier and more practical than any I have seen at TSC or the co-op! AWESOME job, love all your hints too!!!! Come build me one???? My son is in the Navy there in Norfolk!!!
Bruce Watson says
Thank you! And please thank your son for his service to our country! Norfolk is a great place to be.
I also looked at TSC and a few other places but could not get past the sticker shock. The more I looked at pre-built coops the more I knew what I would change if I built my own. That’s where it all started!
Kayla says
I have serious coop envy right now. This is pretty impressive. I know what I will be building when I have the space for it. Thanks for sharing.
Bruce Watson says
Thank you! And please thank your son for his service to our country! Norfolk is a great place to be.
I also looked at TSC and a few other places but could not get past the sticker shock. The more I looked at pre-built coops the more I knew what I would change if I built my own. That’s where it all started!